Perfume2000
Spring/Summer, 2000
Amyris oil
The Poor Mans Sandalwood
Amyris oil, also known as West Indian Sandalwood oil is steam distilled from the wood of the Amyris Balsamifera, locally know as "bois chandelle" (candle wood). This wood was reportedly once distilled in the Dominican republic as well as Jamaica and Venezuela. However, it is currently produced and exported from only a handful of Haitian distillers. There is also now some ongoing production in the US of Southeast Haitian raw materials.
From Guenther we have obtained the specifications of the Haitian distilled oil:
SG at 15 deg C: 0.959-0.974
OR +30
to +42
RI at 20 deg C: 1.5050 to 1.5070
Solubility at 20 deg C: Soluble
in 1 to 3 vol. of 80% alcohol.
**
It is important to note that despite the oils secondary name, true Amyris wood bears no relation to the Sandalwood tree and the oil that we are familiar with from India and Indonesia Santalum Album. In 1886 Kirby and Holmes detected the botanical origin of Amyris wood oil and it's difference from Sandalwood through microscopic examination of the leaves. Amyris wood was finally classified as Amyris Balsamifera L. by Urban.
Haitian Amyris oil exports have seen a steady decline
over the last ten years. From one of main exporters over the last 30 years,
we have learned that the market for Amyris oil was approx. 120+ drums per
annum. With the material shortage in 1992, skyrocketing prices and the
following Embargo, it was only a matter of time before a synthetic alternative
was put on the market. Owing to these unfortunate events, once the Embargo
was lifted, the exports had fallen (for this exporter) to less than 40
drums per year - not quite enough to keep the distilleries running for
only 5 months!
Strangely enough, pricing for Amyris oil is only lightly higher today than
it was 8-10 years ago.
Amyris' main usage remains much the same as it did year ago; as an inexpensive perfume fixative in soaps and low priced perfumes. It blends well with Lavandin, Citronella, Oakmoss and other woody oils. It has only a limited role in Aromatherapy, but according to some suppliers, it has recently become more popular as a room or mood fragrance. It is still clearly a much cheaper alternative to genuine Sandalwood. It is however noted that olfactorily and therapeutically, Amyris is not a true replacement for Sandalwood - however, as your formula costs are red-lining with the current price for true Sandalwood - perhaps a glance in this direction is worthwhile.
Overall, Amyris may not be the most glamorous or interesting essential oil, but it does have a role to play in household fragrance and some perfumery as a "cheapie" oil. In a world where computers generate formulas based on cost factors, we can imagine that there is some additional potential usage out there for this oil. Perhaps it does deserve a bit more attention and a nicer nickname than "poor man's Sandalwood". Any suggestions??
The Cookson Team