Bergamot Oil

When we were first requested to write and article for Perfume 2000, we were dubious. After all, as international brokers of essential oils and aromatic chemicals, we are many steps removed from the marketing of perfumes.

We rarely interact with perfumers, although we are frequently the recipient of perfumer’s novel suggestions as to where a particular lot should be sent ! - (usually relayed to us via the purchasing department). Similarly, we are often asked to smell a sample to give an "over-the-phone" evaluation. We gave this up after one buyer said our noses needed amputating, while the next offered to buy the discarded organ because it was so good.

So, perfumers, or perfume marketeers we are not ; on the other hand, trading raw materials globally, we have a unique overview of the supply-side that may be of value to downstream planning.

In recent months, overall demand for essential oils has been very subdued, which in turn has encouraged a downward spiral in prices. This scenario is still with us today. What began as the "Asian (Economic) Flu" has become "Global Pneumonia". Having said this, there are three stand-out exceptions in the fragrance area: Lavender, Patchouli and Bergamot oil.

Today, we are concentrating on :
Bergamot oil

Identification : According to some literature, there is historical data that supports the theory that the Bergamot is a hybrid cross between bitter orange "bigarade" - C. aurantium LIN (we have also found it described by some as a "small acidic orange") and true lime - C. aurantifolia CHRISM. Most often it is called Citrus bergamia - named after the region in Italy where it was first successfully cultivated. Considered to be in the Rutacaea family. According to Arctander, the trees are grafted on stubs of bitter orange trees, approximately 4.5 meters high with smooth oval leaves.

International ID :

CoE N. 137
ECOIN/CAS: 8007-75-8
RIFM 11:1031 (1973)
FEMA 2153 (GRAS)
FDA 182.20 - GRAS-Natural Flavor Extractive

Extraction: Cold pressed (from the peels of the fruit of the bergamot tree - which are still hand-picked from the trees and processed in both Ivory Coast and Italy using pelatrice extractors.

Yield: Approximately 0.5% depending on the source and production procedure

Main Areas of Cultivation:

Italy, -150 kilometer narrow strip of coast along the Mediterranean sea. The total area of production approx. 1300 hectares, mainly in Reggio Calabria.

Total Annual Production - Italy

1993-1994 85-90 mt
1994-1995 75-80 mt
1995-1996 85-90 mt
1996-1997 90-95 mt
1997-1998 80-85 mt
1998-1999 est 75-80 mt

Some readers might remember the incredible price increases during 1990-1991. For comparison, during this crop, only 35 mt of oil were produced in Italy, a significant drop from the previous year where approximately 130 mt were produced. It is believed that due to the tremendous price increase during this time period, many users switched to synthetic equivalents. At present, we are in a firm market and this may result in (sadly) even further re-formulations.

** See our projections for 1999.

Ivory Coast - Approximately the same total area of cultivation, however, several production areas are scattered throughout the country with varying soil and climate conditions.

Total Annual Exports - Ivory Coast  
1994 65 MT
1995 75 MT
1996 50 MT
1997 40 MT

Minor Areas of Cultivation: South America : The commercial production and exports from these areas are minimal.

Crop Times: Italy - December - March

Ivory Coast - October/November

USA - Year round (see below)

There were attempts to introduce Bergamot to the USA (Florida, Louisiana and California) dating back to 1815 but these were unsuccessful and abandoned. However, this has not stopped the U.S. being the largest exporter of Bergamot oil as can be seen from the following USDA statistics:

 

1994

1995

1996

1997

112 mt

151 mt

144 mt

154 mt

Could this oil be grown in the lab?? Certainly there is apparently a good market for "stretched" Bergamot oil. For comparison, the following are the total annual US imports:

1994 38 mt
1995 33 mt
1996 37 mt
1997 37 mt

Description: The oil is a greenish /yellow liquid with fresh, clear, lively odor, somewhat fruity and sweet. It is known to have approximately 300 components. The main being linalool and linalyl acetate the levels of which vary depending on the time of processing.

One may note from the above statistics that the oil extracted from young fruit generally has a higher linalool content and that the linalyl acetate increases the same time the crop advances. It is interesting to note that the linalool content in Ivory Coast Bergamot oil is higher than Italian origin which may be due to the tropical climate (hot and humid), however, both origins have similar linalyl acetate contents.

Physio Chemical Properties

  ITALY IVORY COAST
Ref. Index at 20 deg C. 1.464-1.480 1.4620-1.4640
Opt. Rot at 20 deg C +8 to +30 +16 to +33
Spec. Gravity at 20 C 0.876-0.884 0.8790-0.8829
Acid Number up to 2 above 1.24
Ester Number 86-129 120.1 to 143.8
CD Number 0.800 to 1.200 0.58 to 0.67
Bergaptene 0.279 0.203-0.366
Flash Point 58 deg C 58 deg C

Usage: The aroma-therapy industry is currently interested in the following applications for the essential oil:

Analgesic, antidepressant, antispasmodic, digestive, diuretic, laxative, stimulant. Furthermore it is understood to be a valuable treatment for cystitis and urethritis. The antiseptic qualities of Bergamot oil are valuable in the treatment of acne, oily skin, and skin infections.

Fragrances: as a top note for perfumery, it blends well with citrus oils, lavender, neroli, jasmine, geranium, cypress, juniper and is often used in toiletries and colognes.

Flavor: Confections, tea.

Safety Information: Certain furocoumarins (including Bergaptene) are photo toxic to human skin and causes sensitivity when exposed to sunlight.

1998-1999 Production Projections: From various exporters, traders and stockists, we have been advised that this year’s crop will likely again fail to meet demand. Origin export prices have remained at high levels, despite the new crop having been exported from Ivory Coast and exports of Italian oil imminent. Both Ivory Coast and Italy lack any carry-over stocks from the last crop and we will likely see firm prices throughout 1999 based on world-wide demand remaining unchanged.

The Cookson Team